Leimert Park

Mikaela J. Randolph

Leimert Park: More Than A Place An Experience

In the community now known as South Los Angeles, lies a piece of African-American history. Hidden from plain view Leimert Park anchors the south end of South Los Angeles. Leimert Park is bounded by Crenshaw Boulevard to the west, Leimert Boulevard to the east, and Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard to the north. This area of South Los Angeles has a rich history not strictly because of the experiences of the African-Americans past and present, but also because of the changes the area has seen. This paper will attempt to give an in-depth view of African-Americans in South Los Angeles as well as insight into Leimert Park's contribution to the history of Los Angeles. Through historical information, visual assessment of the area, assessing and analyzing housing, ethnicity, and social class indicators, identifying the land issues concerning the area and through interviews the importance of African-Americans in Leimert park and in greater Los Angeles as a whole will be revealed.
African-Americans in South Los Angeles

The city of Los Angeles is home to many people and a city of great ethnic diversity. The Black experience in Los Angeles has been affected by a variety of social, economic and cultural factors. Some of the issues that have been examined in the past continue to be examined are residential segregation, contiguous expansion, and non-contiguous dispersal to more distant places.

According to Turner and Allen (2002), authors of Changing Faces, Changing Places, Los Angeles had been the urban center for Blacks in California for over a century. The largest enclave of African-Americans is in what was traditionally known as South Central, Los Angeles, which is broadly defined as the area mostly south of Interstate 10 and west of Alameda Street (Allen and Turner, 2002, p.16). African-Americans have a long and rich history in the state of California. It is crucial to know the history of Blacks in California in order to gain a thorough understanding of Blacks in Los Angeles. Blacks live amongst a diverse group of ethnicities, and have continually struggled to thrive socially, economically, and culturally.

Blacks arrival into California was largely due to economics. Gold mining was believed to bring wealth (El Dorado, p. 18). When Los Angeles was first established in 1781, men and women of African decent comprised of half of the original settlers. Historically, Black residential areas have been changed as a result of residential segregation, contiguous expansion, and non-contiguous dispersal to more distant places. (Allen and Turner, 2002). The arrival of large numbers of Blacks into Los Angeles caused problems for Black settlement because there was much objection by Whites to their arrival and therefore limits were established as to where Blacks could settle. These restrictions were backed by the courts and laws until U.S. and California Supreme Court decisions between 1948 and 1967 changed the legislation for residential segregation. During the years of legal segregation, Los Angeles had one highly concentrated Black area, which was located South of Downtown, on either side of Central Avenue. Two smaller concentrated areas were located in the west Jefferson area and in Watts. From 1915-1960's restrictions on Blacks were dictated not only where they could live, there were many "discriminatory and separationist practices" (Allen and Turner, p.77). Whites made strong efforts to prevent Blacks from using public facilities, attaining better jobs, joining white unions; they were often denied admittance at movie theaters, restaurants, hotels, playgrounds, and swimming pools. (Allen and Turner, 2002)

Contiguous expansion of Black residential areas has been constant since World War II. Between the 1930's through the 1940's, large migrations to Los Angeles were occurring because of wartime employment opportunities, and the reported affluence of California. Blacks often suffered violence at the hands of Whites who opposed change to racial restrictions regarding settlement. According to Allen and Turner (2002), such violent acts directed towards blacks who settled in White neighborhoods included throwing rotten fruit, smearing houses with paint, tearing out rose bushes, cutting off electricity, warping floor boards by flooding them with water hoses and burning crosses in their yards. In South Central Los Angeles, Blacks were forced to move because of the departure of jobs and larger grocery and department stores to the suburbs. Crimes and violent harassment by the police led to poverty and frustration. In 1967, the California Supreme Court ruled that the state must enforce the U.S. Fair Housing Law (the Rumford Act). The era of racially restrictive housing covenants had ended. In response White homeowners usually sold to Blacks and left the area to live in a more distant suburb.

In Los Angeles's early history Blacks continued to grow rapidly. In the first decade of the twentieth century the African-American population more than tripled African-American established organizations, and institutions that defined and defended the community. By 1910, Los Angeles became the center of the Black population, politics, and business in California. This transition was made more evident by the election of Frederick Roberts as the states first Black assemblyman. In a twelve-block section of Central Avenue there were a flourishing of Black-owned theaters, savings and loan associative, automobile dealerships, newspapers offices, and retail businesses. Central Avenue was also home to the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Company, the largest Black business in the West. The Hudson-Lidell Building at 41st and Central was designed by Paul Williams, a Black architect and became a symbol of what was possible for Black Angelenos.

A growing Black middle class and a much slower Black population growth has attributed to the cultural changes in society. Mexican immigrants in areas, which were once predominantly Black, have also led to Black dispersal. These immigrants have found that the cheapest housing in Los Angeles was in the historic Central Avenue corridor. By the 1990's Latinos outnumbered Blacks in the area. General dispersal and Latino settlement have weakened all of the Black concentrations.

The Black community continued to grow and expand. Watts became included as part of South Central Los Angeles, and Black frustration with the economic situation, poverty, and lack of jobs, grocery stores, banks, and movie theaters led to anger and exploded in rebellion in 1965 with the Watts riot. African Americans find themselves in a continuing struggle against the increasing Latino population to maintain their socioeconomic status. Some evidence of the benefits of the African American struggle can be seen in some of the upper middle class neighborhoods such as Windsor Hills, View Park, Ladera Heights, and Baldwin Hills, which were all previously, White neighborhoods.

Leimert Park History
Leimert Park was established in 1927 and named after the real estate developer who purchased the land William H. Leimert. Previously, a predominantly White neighborhood, its demographics began to shift in 1942, when Franklin D. Roosevelt desegregated the manufacturing plants. Local government began to neglect the neighborhood, contributing to its decline. Following the 1992 riot a coalition formed to develop the neighborhood into what it is today. (Carpenter, L.A. Times)

Today, Leimert Park is home to a versatile collection of the arts, an invigorating nightlife, and an immense array of authentic foods. On 43rd and Degnan Boulevard lies a place with more culture per square inch than in most neighborhoods in the city. A mecca of Africana-Americana, it's packed with art galleries, eateries, and shops, as well as jazz clubs.

The storefront studio Dance Collective offers classes in a variety of disciplines from West African to Cuban to Salsa. Classes here often fill and spill out onto the sidewalk, turning practice into performance. Sunday afternoons, a drum circle forms to pound out beats in the park. The Museum in Black is a treasure chest of African and African American history. The front is jammed with statues, masks, pottery, and instruments from all parts of Africa. The back room is loaded with 5,000 pieces of Black memorabilia, much of it from the slavery era. Gallery plus offers contemporary African American art and books. The Zambezi Bazaar features ethnic jewelry, and clothing, including great selection of vintage jazz final and rare books upstairs. Finally, there's Sika's, which offers handmade jewelry.

The nightlife is very popular offering everything from rap to jazz performances. Babe's and Ricky's Inn once played host to blues legends B.B. King and John Lee Hooker. Today live acts perform five days a week. Jazz, poetry, and spoken-word performances can be seen at the legendary World Stage or Lucy Florence Coffeehouse. The Regency West Theater is a supper club, playing host to both theatrical and comedy performances. Project Blowed opens its doors to aspiring rappers and host underground hip-hop shows.

A variety of cuisines are offered from classic Soul food, Jamaican food, barbecue and even Mexican food. Authentic Soul food is almost around every corner. The Kitchen or M&M's for some of the best there is to offer in the area. The smell of mesquite will lead you to Phillip's; "a hole in the wall barbecue joint that serves to die for baby back ribs and fixins'" The Jerk Pit makes excellent Jamaican foods that are reasonably priced. La Fuente del Sabor cooks up authentic Mexican and Salvadorian food in a festive and colorful environment. Overall from the arts to the food, Leimert Park is rich with culture and limitless in possibilities. (Carpenter, L.A. Times)

Visual Assessment
Forty-third and Degnan is the center of Leimert Park, which serves as the center of Black culture, diversity, art, intellectual opportunity, and inspiration. I chose this area for my visual assessment. I thought it would be beneficial for me to observe the area in the daytime as well as the nightlife and note the changes in the dynamics. Many African-Americans are aware of Leimert Park's vibrant nightlife. I am not bias when it comes to this area because I live approximately ten minutes away from the are and have been privileged enough to experience the incredible gifts the neighborhood has to offer.

The commercial area is located on Forty-third and Degnan, where you will find a history that is as rich as Los Angeles itself. Black culture is eminent; it exudes from everything you look at from the grocery stores, retail shops, restaurants, coffeehouses, salons, and museums.
As I arrive in Leimert Park one night and step out of my car, a sense of pride and serenity and pride in a place and a people that have endured through so much and preserved. Leimert Park is peaceful; I often come here to study because of the peacefulness that is offered during the day. It's unlike any experience, especially for Blacks in Los Angeles. The area of Leimert Park is marked by an actual park, which serves as an entrance into Leimert. It was redeveloped after the 1992 riots when Los Angeles invested in the neighborhood by granting money for better lighting, landscaping, and streetscaping. (L.A. Times, Jan.11, 2003) The park is marked by a large fountain, which is surrounded by miniature palm trees. Often around the fountain you will see homeless people congregated or at least a few people who appear to be either homeless or vagabonds, like Omar who is an LMU alumni with a degree in engineering but recently lost his job and was recently kicked out of his parent's home. At first glance, granted he looks like a vagabond, but he has an incredible intellectual scope. He says, he gives the area "some flava".

The air smells of burning incense, barbecue, and coffee, sometimes these smells compete against each other to lull you in their direction. These smells have a lot to do with the businesses present in the area. The businesses on Forty-third and Degnan are comprised of arts and crafts stores, which burn incense to enhance their afrocentricity such as the Zambezi Bazaar, Gallery Plus, and Ramses. The smell of barbecue can be attributed to Phillip's Bar-B-Que, and the aromatic fragrances of coffee are a result of the creative brews of the Lucy Florence Coffeehouse.

You really put yourself at a disadvantaged if you attempt to experience Leimert Park from your car. Leimert Park is one of the city's rare walking districts, so in order to really capitalize on the experience; you need to let your feet hit the pavement. As you proceed to walk down the street from the fountain, you will see a cluster of storefront shops. The businesses located in this area vary in appearance from handmade business signs to neon signs.
When I'm in Leimert Park I feel like I'm a part of history in the making, and it feels me with pride. It is difficult to find a storeowner who doesn't have knowledge to share or provide you with stimulating, intellectual, conversation. My visit here is somewhat bittersweet, while I am overwhelmed with pride because of what the area offers, I am also saddened because I know the area is in danger of being lost due to new ownership, and perhaps by the time I'm ready to have a family of my own, my children may not be able to experience Leimert Park. I see so much potential for this place, the design of the street and the accessibility of the store fronts remind me of Larchmont Boulevard located in Hancock Park, just on a smaller scale. Unfortunately, Leimert Park does not generate the same revenue as Larchmont and is suffering as a result.

Even though there have been many efforts to rejuvenate Leimert Park, remnants of its past are still present. In many of the retail shops the "open" and "closed" sign are in traditional African colors red, black, and green and have "Black owned" printed on them. This is a result of the 1992 riots, which heavily impacted many Black neighborhoods, including Leimert Park and other adjacent areas.

The residential area of Leimert Park, I found to be equally as rich as the commercial area. It consists of mixed housing; there are single-family homes, interwoven with duplexes, and triplexes. The residential neighborhood is lined with huge Pine and Oak trees. The housing structure appear to be very old in their style, they are not contemporary style. The whole residential area reminds you of an isolated villa or town. The layout of the streets are very intricate because there are turns and curves in and out of one another adding to a sense of neighborhood oasis.

Census Tract Data
By attaining information from the Census 2000, I was able to compare data from Leimert Park and other adjacent areas to Los Angeles City as well as the nation and form some interesting conclusions. The population in these areas is predominantly Black ranging from 42%-85%, where in the nation Blacks are represented as 12% of the total population. Other interesting statistics that were discovered while I was compiling data on housing was the homeownership rates. Homeownership rates for Blacks in these census tracts were much higher than the national percentage of Black homeownership. In these census tracts the Black homeownership ranged from 55%-76%, where the national percentage of Black homeownership was a staggering 7%. The amount of people below the poverty level is much higher in these tracts in comparison to the nation. The poverty percentages range from 11%-31%. The national percentage is only 12%. For other census tract information please see the attached tables.

Census Tract #2220	Total Population 7,314
% White – 16%	% Commute to work 29 min. or less – 48%
% Latino – 53%	% Commute to work 30-59min – 35%
% Black – 42%	% Commute to work 60+ - 16%
% Asian – 0%	Total # of occupied housing units – 2,095
% Native born citizens – 65%	% Owner occupied housing – 44%
% Naturalized citizens – 10%	% White owner occupied – 14%
% Not citizens – 24%	% Latino owner occupied – 39%
% Foreign born between 1980-2000 – 73%	% Black owner occupied – 55%
% Linguistically isolated Spanish speakers – 11%	% Asian owner occupied – 0%
% Linguistically isolated Asian Pacific speakers – 0%	% Renter occupied – 55%
% Linguistically isolated other non-Eng speakers – 0%	% White renter occupied – 10%
% Males 25 & over completed high school – 23%	% Latino renter occupied – 35%
% Females 25 & over completed high school – 17%	% Black renter occupied – 62%
% Males 25 & over B.A. degree – 5%	% Asian renter occupied – 1%
% Females 25 & over B.A. degree – 9%	Median gross rent - $618
Median household income - $28,938	Median value of owner occupied housing - $153,500
% Below poverty – 25%

Land Use Issue
One if the major land-use issues that faces Leimert Park today, affects the nine storefront shops on Degnan Boulevard. In the summer of 2002 the property was sold because of the a iling health of Jack Sidney, a Manhattan Beach landlord who tried to nurture the area's identity by keeping rents below market rates. New owner Russell Associates, a Sherman Oaks Company, began notifying storeowners of increases in rent in August, shortly after he purchased the property (Mitchell, L.A. Times). Since the 1980's Leimert Park shop owners have tried to transform the block of Colonial style storefronts on Degnan Boulevard into a pedestrian-friendly enclave of African American culture. Some shop owners say that increasing rents are a sign that the area has turned around, and that the years spent promoting culture and reducing crime have made shop owners victims of their own success.

Over the last few years, buildings have been spruced up, and the city has spent thousands of dollars to give the park a facelift, which hosts numerous festivals including celebrations for Kwanzaa, Jazz, and Malcolm X's birthday. The city's Cultural Affairs Department has a detailed plan to utilize the city owned Vision Theater to make Leimert Park Village, a center for music.
The new owners have plans to put nail salons, hair shops, convenience stores, and different restaurants in the area. Some merchants said their efforts to discuss their plans for the neighborhood have been rebuffed by the new owners. The President of the Leimert Park Merchants Association states "the new owners are not interested in anything other than receiving rent. We wrote a letter to them to let them know they didn't just invest in a building, they invested in a community that is proud and moving forward." Merchants have set up meetings with the new owners, shopkeepers, and Mayor, James K. Hahn in the hopes that he could intervene and discuss what can be done to preserve the area. Clint Rosemond, executive director of the World Stage has seen his rent jump from $560 a month to $1,020 a month. Mr.Rosemond states "artist are always on the edge in terms of cash flow and paying bills." The World Stage often host a number of workshops for writers, poets, musicians, and asked for $5 donations, but now they are forced to require the five dollars be paid before entrance into the workshop. While this may seem like a minimal fee to pay it is important that we recognize that many of the individuals who participate in these workshops are battling against a variety of socioeconomic factors, such as unemployment, poor education, and sometimes the only way for them to gain prosperity is through the arts.

Another property owner Edward McDaniel was evicting Brian Breye, the owner of the Museum in Black, because he owed $20,000 in back rent. It took Breye 30 years to build up the museum, and just a few days to pack it all up when he got the news of the eviction. Fortunately, for Breye, a donor gave $20,000 to the museum so that the doors could stay open (McCartney, L.A. Times). Other shop owners have not been so lucky, and have had to close the doors, and it may only be a matter of time before shops have to close their doors and this historic place is gone forever.

Conclusion
While studying the Black enclaves we learn that there are many factors affecting the emergence of heavily concentrated Black areas such as the continuous and rapid expansion of the Latino community, the slow expansion of African Americans themselves as well as many socioeconomic factors such as rising rates in unemployment, and lack of employment opportunities. It becomes more evident that as a nation and members of one of the most populous cities we are aware of the growing problems different ethnicities face. Perhaps the information on South Los Angeles and Leimert Park has provided you with an insight to some of the issues that African Americans are facing in this area.

References
Allen, J.P. and Turner, E., (2002). Changing faces, changing places: Mapping Southern
Californians, California State University, Northridge, CA.

Allen, J. and Turner, E. (1997). The ethnic quilt: Population diversity in Southern California.
California State University, Northridge, CA.

Carpenter, S. "Road Trip: A haven of Black history" The Los Angeles Times, 7 Nov. 2002.
DeGraaf, L., Mulroy, K., and Taylor, Q., (2001). Seeking el dorado: African-americans in
California. University of Washington press, Seattle.

McCartney, A. "Los Angeles; gift provides a reprieve for museum; Community: donation of
$20,00 saves Leimert Park Village institutions from eviction, others offer help save civil
right-era displays." The Los Angeles Times 27 Jul. 2002.

Mitchell, J. "Surroundings Leimert Park Village; Sudden rise in rents threatens area's identity"
The Los Angeles Times 26 Dec. 2002.

"Village Life Worth Saving: rising rents threaten to push out Leimert Park artists" The Los
Angeles Times 11 Jan. 2003.

"Museum in Black Falls into the Red" The Los Angeles Times 5 Jul. 2002.